Jerome Dreyfuss talks about ‘agricouture’ and Slow Fashion in an exclusive interview by the French Fashion blogger ‘Le Modalogue’.

Here is the complete transcript of the discussion, part #1. Part #2 will be published tomorow.

Christian Poulot: Tell us about agricouture. What is it exactly?

Jérôme Dreyfuss: It is a little complicated. Agricouture is an engagement I have taken for my clients. I give the guarantee to my clients that the animals we are using are coming from land where they live free, which is something really important. They don’t live inside. They are outside running, eating normally. I’m giving the guarantee to my clients that we try as much as we can, not to use any chemical products when tanning the skin. We are also giving the guarantee that the water we use to tan the skin is recycled, which is very important. When I began - things have changed in ten years - but when I began with my leather, all the factories were not recycling the water. In 2012, I think they will all be obliged to do it. At the beginning none of them were doing it and it was hard to find somebody who would recycle the water and not put the pollution outside of the factories. Basically that is the guarantee that I give to my clients.

CP: Where do you make your bags? In a small factory, in an “atelier”?

JD: Yes, I only work in really small factories in Belgium, in Morocco, in Tunisia, in Portugal and in Spain. Unfortunately for us all those industries are dead in France. I work with small “ateliers” and - I as like to say - with little old guys who really know the work. That’s why I’m interested in working with those people because I’m learning a lot with them. It’s important to keep working those kind of small companies in order to learn from them, and to transmit their knowledge to other people. That’s really what makes French luxury, so I think it is my role to work with those people as well.

CP: Do you know why premium brands (except some) or even mass market brands do not communicate on bio (organic)? Do you think it would have a serious impact if some big names showed the way, lead the path.

-          JD: I think they will. I’m not sure they will communicate on it, but I’m sure they will do it because one day they will be obliged to do it. We are going to have laws to oblige people to work with clean products. So everybody is coming to it really slowly. Everyone keeps talking to me about agricouture, apparently I was one of the first to use those materials and those techniques. Now what I see when I’m travelling is other labels using those kinds of products, which is good. I don’t want to be the only one doing it. I hope everybody will. I’m sure big companies will do it, but for big companies it takes a lot to organize and to change factories, it takes time for them. It is easy for me because I am small.

CP: About creation, when we are talking about bio attitude, people are still thinking of something boring: poor colours, poor shapes, etc. But it is certainly not your case, all of your bags have many details, and seem to be very thoughtful. How do you create a new bag, where do you find inspiration?

JD: I find the inspiration by watching my wife and my friends. I’m interested in architecture from the 30s to the 60s. I’m amazed by people like Noguchi, George Nelson, or Jean Prouvé. People who were trying to make furniture for the mass market. They were trying to make everything practical and easy, it was kind of the first slow furniture. Meaning it had to be practical, it had to be cheap. I’m amazed by those designers. When I’m designing a bag, I’m always thinking of what my wife and my friends need to put inside it. I’m designing the bag around what they need to put inside. That’s why there are so many pockets or always a little lamp inside. I’m trying to make a woman’s life easier, which is really hard!

CP: You don’t seem to be under the influence of trends.

JD: No, I am not really interested in fashion. I used to be more than interested in fashion, I used to dream about fashion. But I don’t think fashion is that creative today. I don’t think that things are happening in the fashion world. Fashion became a big business and I’m not interested in Madonna, in Mariah Carey and in all those things.

CP: Not anymore

JD: Not anymore. I was when I was 20, but I’m 30 and I’m not amazed by those people. They are not real people, everything is fake, their boobs are fake, their mouths are fake, their voices are fake. I’m more interested in real things. I’m working a lot with young artists. I have a whole crew of friends who are painters, all kinds of artists. They are more creative than anybody in the fashion business, and they inspire me very much. They don’t have the pressure we have in the fashion business, where we all need to be in the trend, bla bla bla, and all those stupid things. I don’t care about that. I’m more interested in what I feel and just trying to seduce women.

Read the french version on his blog : www.lemodalogue.fr